Do You Really Need A Night Cream? The Experts Explain... (2024)

If we believed everything the skincare industry tells us then, well, we’d have quite a few problems to work through, but that’s a subject for another story. Right now, I'm unpacking the idea of products for ‘day’ and ‘night’ – something marketing teams have been pushing for years in a thinly veiled attempt to double the skincare real estate on our dressing tables (and the numbers in their profit margin).

So, is night cream really a thing? Does your skin Jekyll and Hyde itself into a different being, with different needs, as soon as the clock strikes midnight? (Who am I kidding: bedtime is 10pm.)

Well, the answer isn’t quite as clear-cut as you might think. Investing in a dedicated night cream to sit alongside your daytime SPF moisturiser isn’t necessarily the key to clearer, brighter or better hydrated skin, but that doesn’t mean I'm outlawing the category altogether.

Generally speaking, a moisturiser lives to do just that: moisturise. But if you’re hoping to tackle a more involved issue – perhaps fine lines, pigmentation or a bout of the dreaded acne – a targeted nocturnal salve may well be beneficial.

Night Creams: The ELLE Top Five

• Best for acute issues: Klira The Special, was £59 now £44.25
• Best for retinol users: Medik8 Advanced Night Restore, was £59, now £44.25
• Best for brightening: Tula Bedtime Bright, £54
• Best for acne: Effaclar Duo+M Moisturiser, was £20, now £14
• Best for retinol: Beauty Pie Super Retinol+ Vitamin C Night Renewal Moisturiser, £18.50

BAs Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8, explains, your skin behaves differently after dark, meaning its requirements are different. 'The skin has its own kind of circadian rhythm – 24-hour cycles, which describe the rhythmic changes in physiology and behaviour,' he explains. 'Regeneration of skin cells happens much more quickly at night than during the day, because in the daytime, fresh skin cells are more susceptible to UV damage, meaning less are produced.'

Transepidermal water loss (that is, the process of water evaporating from the skin) is higher at night too – according to Isaacs, by as much as 30% – so switching out your daytime moisturiser in favour of a richer alternative will ensure you wake up with plump skin, not pillow creases.

As facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson explains, today’s best night creams contain specific ingredients that should be used during the twilight hours. 'At night, actives such as retinol are able to work without the exposure to UV light, negating the risk of skin sensitisation.'

She considers a night cream more of an optional ‘support’ product: something to supercharge your routine when skin needs an extra boost. Ingredients to consider are 'retinol, all the exfoliating acids, and benzoyl peroxide,' depending on the concerns you’re hoping to treat.

Antioxidants are another great night-time partner, as they'll work to neutralise any free radicals left lingering on your skin from the day (yep, even after you've double-cleansed). And of course, heavy-hitting hydrators – from glycerin to avocado – are always welcome once evening arrives.

In short, if you’ve found a moisturiser you like, there's little reason not to use it day and night – especially if you're on a budget or sticking to a simple routine. (which in many cases, is the best move). But if you’re after something extra? See my verdict on the best night creams on the shelves now: there’s one for every skin type and concern.

The Best Night Cream For Every Skin Type

I came to this brand via its now-viral (and genuinely brilliant) cooling eye balm, which is so good at soothing tired screen eyes I keep one permanently on my desk. Now, I'm adding this equally impressive night treatment to my rotation: with a modest dose of fruit acids (I'm super-sensitive and can use it with no issues) alongside vitamin C to brighten dullness and the brand's signature probiotics, it's an all-in-one power bank for depleted winter complexions.

Big in the States, Youth To The People is a skincare brand focused on bringing nutrient-rich fruit and plant extracts to the fore. What this means is you're getting a silky, gel-like night treatment packed with antioxidant-rich extracts and humectants that'll soak up moisture and hold it there all night long.

Based on the brand's phenomenally popular Lip Sleeping Masks, this bouncy, jelly-like night treatment is essentially the frosting on your before-bed hydration routine. It doesn't feel heavy or claggy on skin, and over time it'll solve those stubborn dry patches and even make irritated, red complexions look brighter and calmer. If you're after that mega-quenched, just-had-a-facial plumpness, this is your fast-track.

I've been impressed by everything I've tried from this Singaporean brand: while it might be priced into the luxury end of the market, you're getting forensic, science-backed formulation instead of sensorial smoke and mirrors. For those prone to oiliness and breakouts, this dioic-acid based treatment is the one: it boasts antibacterial properties as well as a light exfoliating action, meaning it'll help heal existing breakouts, fade lingering scars, and prevent new eruptions from occurring.

Murad's latest launch really fills a gap in the market. Exasoothe is designed specifically for eczema-prone skin, which of course needs highly specialised treatment. The star of the trio, this ultra-rich cream combines shea butter with barrier-restoring sugars, niacinamide and colloidal oatmeal to soothe any itchy patches. It's not overly greasy, and can be used by the most sensitive of skins.

Rich and indulgent, Omorovicza's night cream strikes just the right balance for dry skin. The brand's signature Hungarian thermal water forms the base, meaning you're getting a dose of inflammation-fighting, mineral-rich goodness every evening. What's more, peptides plump the skin surface brilliantly, while plum and jojoba seed oils smooth and soften.

While oily skin won't necessarily want to be marinating in a thick, occlusive cream over night, the witching hour is an ideal time to get some beneficial resurfacing in. Exuviance's cleverly formulated gel-cream contains a combination of poly-hydroxy acid and mandelic acid to take on excess sebum production, surface pigmentation and acne scarring in one fell swoop. Use it a couple of nights per week for best results.

Dermalogica's recent launch is one that really surpassed my expectations. A redness-reducing SOS cream, it's loaded with natural extracts that genuinely quell irritation in a matter of minutes, be it rosacea flares or a reaction from a too-strong exfoliator. Don't reserve this one solely for evening: it's a calming comfort blanket for morning, noon and night.